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Are Smart Locks Secure? Keypad, Wi-Fi and Hub Locks Compared

By Guardian Angel DIY · Updated October 27, 2026 · 10 min read

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Smart locks promise convenience: no key to lose, codes you can give to a guest, and a lock that closes itself behind you. They also raise fair questions. Can they be hacked? What happens when the battery dies or the Wi-Fi goes down? Is a keypad really as strong as a regular deadbolt? The honest answer is that a smart lock changes how you open the door, not how strong the door is. This guide explains the types, the real risks and failure modes, and which kind makes sense for different homes and budgets.

What a smart lock changes, and what it does not

A smart lock replaces the part you turn or the key you use. It can lock the door automatically, accept codes, report when it was opened and let you control it from a phone. Those are real benefits. The biggest one is also the least glamorous: a door that locks itself cannot be left unlocked by mistake. Many home break-ins involve doors that were simply not locked, so removing that error is worth something.

What a smart lock does not change is how the door stands up to force. A door kicked in at the frame does not care how clever the lock is. If the strike plate is held by short screws, the door will split along the frame whatever the lock inside it. Start with our guide to reinforcing a front door, and use our deadbolt guide for what the grades mean.

The main types

Renters should read our renter guide first, since changing a lock usually needs the landlord's permission.

How secure are they, really?

Consider the risks in the order that you are likely to meet them.

1. Human error. A shared code that never gets changed, a code that is a birthday, or a door left propped. These cause more problems than any technical attack.
2. Batteries. Most smart locks run on batteries and warn you when they are low. Ignoring the warning is the usual cause of a lockout.
3. Network and app issues. A Wi-Fi lock can lose its connection, or a software update can go wrong. The keypad usually still works, but remote control and history do not.
4. Physical attack. A keypad lock does not stop someone who kicks, drills or pries the door. That is true of any lock.
5. Digital attack. Remote hacking of a home lock is possible in principle, and researchers have found flaws in some products over the years. It is far less common in practice than a kicked door or an unlocked one. You reduce the risk by choosing a reputable brand, keeping the software current and securing the account.

None of this means smart locks are a bad idea. It means they are a convenience and a habit-fixer, not a stronger door. For most households, the biggest security gain comes from the auto-lock feature and from managing codes well.

What happens when something fails

Think through the bad days before you buy.

• The battery dies. Most locks give weeks of warning. Replace the batteries when the lock first warns you, and do not wait. Some locks have a way to give emergency power from outside, such as terminals for a battery. Check yours.
• The Wi-Fi is down. A Wi-Fi lock usually still opens by code or key. Check that yours does before relying on it.
• You forget the code. Keep a backup, such as a physical key, and tell the people who live there how to reset it.
• You are locked out. Auto-lock is the usual cause. Carry a key or a phone, and keep a spare with a neighbor you trust, not under a mat.
• The power fails. A battery-powered lock should keep working, but check. A lock tied to a hub may lose remote features.
• A fire. Make sure that anyone can open the door from inside without a key or a code. A plain thumb turn inside, or a lever, is what you want. See our fire escape plan.

The simplest protection is a key. Many smart locks keep a keyed cylinder as a backup. Some keyless models do not, so decide whether you are comfortable without one.

Features worth having

• Auto-lock. The lock re-locks after a short delay. Set the delay long enough that you can get in with your hands full.
• Multiple user codes. A separate code for each person lets you delete one without changing the others.
• Temporary guest codes. Useful for a cleaner, a dog walker or a short stay. Delete them afterward.
• Activity history. It tells you who came in and when. It is only useful if codes are not shared.
• A tamper alert. It warns when someone tries the lock repeatedly or forces it.
• A strong rating. Look for an ANSI/BHMA grade. Grade 1 is the highest for residential locks.
• Re-key ability. If you lose a key, you can change the cylinder without replacing the lock.

Four picks at different budgets

A standalone keypad lock

These are the simplest step up. They open with a code or a key, they run on batteries, and they have no app, hub or subscription. For many homes, that is exactly the right amount of technology. The trade-off is no remote access and no activity log on the budget model.

A Wi-Fi smart deadbolt

This adds the app, history, and voice-assistant control. It is the most capable option here, and the most expensive. It also depends on batteries and Wi-Fi, so it is the one with the most that can go wrong.

A hub-connected lock

This is for people who already run a smart-home system or a security system with a compatible hub. If you do not already own one, the extra cost and complexity are hard to justify.

Managing codes well

• Avoid obvious codes. Birthdays, addresses, 1234 and repeated digits are the first guesses. Pick random digits.
• Give each person a code. You can then delete a single one without disturbing the rest.
• Delete short-term codes after a visit or a repair, and review the list every few months.
• Change a code if it is shared by accident, or if someone moves out.
• Do not post or text codes where others can read them. See our guide to neighbor networks on keeping codes private.
• Keep the master code private, and write it down somewhere safe.

Installation and setup

• Check the door first. The bolt must line up with the strike without force. A door that sticks will wear out a battery lock quickly.
• Check the backset and the thickness against the lock's requirements.
• Use long screws in the strike plate, as in the front door guide.
• Test it from both sides, and with the door open and closed. Test the backup key.
• Secure the app account with a strong password and two-factor authentication. Our guide to Wi-Fi and smart-device security covers how.
• Write down the factory reset steps for the day you sell or move.

Which one should you buy?

What it costs: a simple plan

Common mistakes to avoid

• Buying a smart lock for a weak door. Fix the frame first.
• Ignoring the low-battery warning. Change batteries early.
• Sharing one code with everyone. Give each person their own.
• Having no backup key. Keep one with someone you trust.
• Skipping the account password. Use a strong one with two-factor authentication.
• Forgetting the exit. Anyone must be able to open the door from inside.

Frequently asked questions